The word got out, and quickly: Lucy’s in the Square does a quality brunch. At quarter after 10 on Sunday, minutes after they open, I slip into Fernwood’s new bistro, just ahead of a crowd the starts the waiting list. I grab a table between two elderly couples, order coffee and watch the rush.
A large group sits opposite me. Fresh-squeezed mimosas come out to join them – coffee for the table, too, which is why my waitress comes out to tell me that a fresh pot and a cup for me are on their way. I nod my thanks.
While I’m waiting plates come out for the couple on my left: one plate is scrambled eggs; the other looks to be the breakfast tart. The two dig into their food and then share with each other.
They chew, their eyes get big and round, and they say, “Oh, that’s good,” in a heavy and reverential whisper.
I’m here for the eggs benedict, though, hollandaise on a menu being too much temptation. I’ve had the standard benny, which was lovely, but there’s one with smoked tuna that has me curious.
I order and entertain myself with the mini-blueberry muffins that serve as a precursor to breakfast here. They come in a brown paper bag, which makes me think of my days in school and provides a nice casual touch to the bistro. Munch, munch.
My benny, when it comes, is a simple affair. Eggs covered in a creamy sauce resting on a fresh scone and, to the side, roasted baby potatoes. No heavy garnish, no excess flair. Just good food.
I unroll my cutlery and start in. The hollandaise has a nice hint of lemon, the tuna adds a subtle smokiness to the eggs. The potatoes are light and fluffy on the inside and taste good just on their own. I try to pace myself, but the meal is too good and I’m done very soon.
As I finish up, the couple on my left is leaving too. They say to each other, “This one’s a keeper!”
I couldn’t agree more. I take a white pencil from the table, scribble my thanks on the brown paper tablecloth – customers have been drawing all morning – and sign. The staff know what a great breakfast they do, I think, but it doesn’t hurt to tell them.*
* I should mention here that Lucy’s does lunch and dinner too – this review is only a function of how much I like breakfasts. The restaurant is open Tuesday to Friday from 11am to 5pm for lunch and dinner, Saturday from 10am to 5pm for brunch and dinner, and Sunday from 10am to 2pm for brunch. The lunch and dinner menus include a variety of soups and salads, sandwiches and pizzas, local seafood and organic entrees. Located in Fernwood Square (1296 Gladstone Ave.) you can reach Lucy’s in the Square at 778-430-5829.
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